So I left off upon arriving in the capital to meet Anne. Boarding the bus in SSiem Reap, I had one of those epic travel fail moments. Out of a mix of exhaustion, impatience and general oblivion, I accidentally boarded the wrong bus. Same destination. Same time. But no sleeper bed. It was a sleepless, miserable bus ride, especially when I realized that had I waited just 30 more minutes (the buses were running on ‘Cambodia time’) I would have a full reclining bed to sleep in during the ride.
I arrived back at Top Banana at 6:30am and passed out on one of the cushy couches in the common area. When my eyes cracked open at 10:30, I had several strangers sitting across a table from me eating breakfast. I wiped the drool off my chin, said a somewhat coherent good morning and then went to check into my room. Not long after, I learned that Anne’s flight had been delayed by a day. It was February 1st, the day that began the mourning/celebration of King Sinahouk’s cremation (he died in October). Since almost everything was closed and most of the roads were blocked off, I decided to take it easy and write, then head out for a late afternoon stroll.
While I wrote, the girl at the next table borrowed my lighter several times, which eventually led to a conversation that quickly led to a partner in crime for my outing. Nico, a young Seattle based artist a month or two into a year-long trip, proved excellent company. She was keen on the idea to let our feet take us where they may, changing direction when forced by blocked roads or enticed by an interesting looking street. After an unsuccessful attempt to walk to the river, we meandered aimlessly until we wound up in front of a lovely little tapas restaurant called La Plaza. Once again, I was surprised by the authenticity and eloquence of Cambodia’s international food offerings. Why can’t Korea get western food right?? After yum’ing and ooooh’ing over our sangria, clams mariniere, marinated pork and stuffed squid, which was hysterically described on the menu as being ‘stuffed with its own legs’) we realized that this little gem of an eatery is just up the block from Top Banana. Our feet had instinctively led us home.
scenes from a stroll…
La Plaza deliciousness…
That night, we intended to go see a burlesque show Nico had read about. But as we had a pre-game beer at Top Banana’s bar, we met Obi, who had come to Cambodia from Nigeria as a professional soccer player and has since started a small program to teach soccer to local street kids. AFter a few hours of good conversation, Obi agreed to let us tag along to soccer practice the following day, and then offered to cook us dinner afterward.
We started the next day with an art-fueled visit to Wat Lan Ka, a temple just across the street from Top Banana. While Nico sketched in one area, I planted myself in front of a Buddha statue for about an hour, where I chatted with a few monks and pet a few dogs while I drew.
wat lan ka…
my buddha drawing…
Obi picked us up in a tuk-tuk and we headed to the small soccer field, where we met the rest of the ‘staff’ comprised of sveral other Nigerian pro soccer players who donate their time to the project each Saturday. The kids were amazing, and watching them respond so positively to the structure and discipline that Obi and his friends offered them brought me a kind of joy that words can’t do justice too. Of course, the two random American women who had showed up at their practice was a novelty for them, as well, and those who sat on the sidelines while other groups scrimmaged hammed it up for our cameras.
nico and obi…
soccer practice…
To learn more about Obi’s soccer program and how you can help, visit their facebook page…
http://www.facebook.com/SoccerSkillsFitnessCentre
As promised, Obi brought us to his house, a beautiful, two story gated bungalow with a sweet little yard. Though Obi’ kitchen was rudimentary, he prepared us a lovely meal of rice and fish in a spicy Nigerian tomato based stew. His friend, Michael joined us, yet another Nigerian Soccer player. I go into situations like this thinking, ok, here are interesting people I have met, who I have something profound to learn from simply because their life experiences are so completely different than my own. Of course, with any person, if you dig deep enough, you find the common ground that, if not in experiences, lies in shared values and perspectives. as it turned out, Michael had been a successful screenwriter and director in Nigeria before he came to a crossroads, at which he chose pro soccer. As Michael and I shared our hopes and dreams surrounding film writing and directing, I realized two things. One. That while finding common ground in experience and values makes for good stories and philosophical discussions, finding common ground in aspirations makes for a totally different brand of connecting. Two. That my previous assessment of Nigerian men (who, in all of my experiences have displayed an aggression – never violent, just pushy- toward women that made me uncomfortable) was just one more stereotype that I can happily toss out the window.
obi cooking for us…
my new friend michael…
Anne walked into to the hostel not long after I arrived back, and we stayed up late excitedly planning the journeys to come. Although I had been eager for Anne to arrive so we could move on to the destinations that we have drooled over on google image searches for the past few months, part of me was happy that I had an extra day to take in Phnom Penh, to see it more than just an entry, meeting and exit point. In just an extra 24 hours, I was able to make some solid new friends, get an inside peek at a monumental event in Cambodia’s history (which may be one of the only opportunities to experience a quiet, toned down version of Phnom Penh) and see the amazing work that others are doing to improve the quality of life for local children.
At eleven the next morning, we hopped on a bus to Kampot, where Nico decided to meet us in a day or two. Todd, the manager at Top Banana, a fellow New Yorker with a killer smile and good taste in music (which I learned when I had asked who’s iPod was plugged in playing Jerry Band) recommended a place called Bodhi Villa. And tips from like minded expatriates are the ones I value the most. And this particular tips couldn’t have been more spot on, as you’ll learn as soon as I tackle my next post.
straightouttasotham 